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Published: 2009-02-18 07:58:53 +0000 UTC; Views: 8619; Favourites: 84; Downloads: 74
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A few of the things I use often when I'm sculpting.A: Sculpey Clay Softener. Great for reconditioning dry/hard/brittle clay and bringing it back to a level of workability. Just a few drops for a chunk of clay does the trick! Bought my bottle online, but I can't remember where.
B: Epoxy putty. I use this for attaching parts of the armature. It's stronger and sets up faster than apoxie clay. If you can find some that contains steel, it's even stronger than the stuff in this photo. I wear gloves when I work with this stuff. You can usually find this stuff at your local hardware store. It's sometimes called Plumber's Putty.
C: Aluminum armature wire. The stuff in this photo is smaller gauge, but I have various gauges I work with. I also use very small-gauge steel wire to wrap the heavier gauge wire, which makes the sculpey stick to the armature a bit better. I buy mine at The Compleat Sculptor.
D: 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Perfect for smoothing a sculpt, getting rid of finger prints or crumbs of sculpey. Using a soft brush or a sponge (synthetic and/or natural) with this stuff works well. Evaporates quickly, and is relatively gentle as solvents go. You can find this at the grocery store, or at a pharmacy. The 91% is stronger than the 70%, but the 70% works well enough if that's all that you can find.
E: Apoxie Clay. Great for horns/antlers, claws, teeth, hair, and repairing cracks. Part A and B cure on their own when mixed together. Has a fairly long open time (about 1 hour, sometimes more) that can be slowed by chilling the clay or accelerated by heat. Smoothable with water or isopropyl alcohol, and sandable when it's fully cured (after 10-24 hours). Some people do entire sculpts in this stuff! I get mine online from Van Dyke's Taxidermy.
F: Natural sea sponge. These are really terriffic for adding a neat irregular texture to the surface of the sculpey when dipped in the isopropyl and dabbed onto the clay. Also great for more aggressive smoothing than a paintbrush dipped in alcohol can provide. Synthetic sponges also work well for this purpose, but the natural sea sponges are a bit more durable. Look for these in the water color section of your local art supply store, or online.
G: Super Glue. Great for the early stages of armature construction and also perfect for small cracks or repair work. You can find this stuff at office supply stores, hardware stores, and sometimes local grocery stores. Gorilla brand superglue is good, so is Krazy Glue. I prefer the gel variety, even though it takes a bit longer to dry.
Tools:
1: Home-made rake tool, constructed with a piece of brass tubing, a tiny sawblade, and plumber's putty. Great for aggressive raking to take down uneven places on large areas of a sculpture. Makes a pretty big mess, but it's my favorite rake tool. Found all the supplies to make this at my local hardware store. Probably less than $10 to make.
2: X-acto knife. Great for cutting clay, carving, shaving off pieces... Lots of uses, and definitely an indespensable tool.
3-6: Wolf's Precision Wax Carvers. Don't let the name fool you--these are great for polymer clay as well. I use these all the time for sculpting. There are 18 of these in total. I have 12 of them and will probably get the other 6 in the set at some point this year. They're not cheap, but are incredibly well made and very useful. Find out more about them here: [link] . They can be purchased online at Otto Frei.
7,8: Loop tools. One is just a thin wire, and the other is more of a rake than a loop. Incredibly useful for carving into the clay and removing volume as well as doing detail work. Both types are great. I got most of mine from The Compleat Sculptor.
9: Dental Tool. I have a ton of these, purchased from random places. They're excellent for detail work.
10: Home-made fur tool. It's basically just 3 straight pins in a glob of plumber's putty, arranged in a triangular fashion. This is the thing I use most often to make the fur texture on my sculptures.
Detail shots of the two home-made tools: [link]
Not pictured: sandpaper of various grits, sanding sponges, my cordless dremel, and my clay shapers (those are posted somewhere else in my scraps, I think).
Hope that all of this is helpful to someone!
Related content
Comments: 20
Kekira [2009-11-07 02:33:37 +0000 UTC]
Does Sculpey Softner make Super Sculpey Firm more manageable?
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Kekira In reply to rgyoung [2009-11-07 02:51:30 +0000 UTC]
Oh that could be really helpful for me. I have a 1lb of that stuff but can't use it cause it crumbles too easily.
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rgyoung In reply to Kekira [2009-11-07 03:19:20 +0000 UTC]
It sounds like the plasticizer has leeched out of the clay, possibly.
What I would do if it's really dry and crumbly is get some softener and a razor blade and a ceramic plate and shave little pieces off the block of clay and then chop one piece up at a time--dice it. Then drop some softener into the pile and work with it that way, one little wad at a time. I know that might sound tedious, but I think it's worth it since the stuff can be pretty expensive.
That reminds me: to store your sculpey (any type of it), your best bet is to keep it in an airtight plastic tupperware container or ziplock bags. The packaging it comes in is actually really poor at preserving it since it's paper and the plasticizer just soaks right into it.
To answer your question about the pasta roller: To mix with one, I'd squish a piece of each fairly flat, then squish them together and feed that piece through the pasta roller/machine on the widest setting. After you've fed the whole thing through, fold it in half and repeat the process until you're satisfied with the way things look. This is a good thing to get in the habit of doing even if you're not mixing two types of clay together, because it redistributes the plasticizer in the clay more evenly, which can prevent cracks during and after baking. You can also work with the clay in your hands before you use it and get the same effect.
The sculpture you linked to in your other post looks great and I'd say you're off to an excellent start! Just keep at it. It can be frustrating, but the time and effort you put in really do make a difference.
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Kekira In reply to rgyoung [2009-11-07 03:28:57 +0000 UTC]
Ah ok, I bought it new so I really wasn't sure if that was how it was supposed to be. I'm gonna have to buy some Softner and a pasta roller. Thank you SO much for this advice, most of the sculpture teachers I know of aren't too familiar with Super Sculpey so this helps me out a lot. I'll have to take them out of those cases as well. Thank you SO much again.
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rgyoung In reply to Kekira [2009-11-10 16:26:00 +0000 UTC]
You're welcome!
If you feel comfortable joining a sculpture forum, I'd really recommend doing so. The one owned and operated by the Shiflett brothers is a great place to go, especially since there are a lot of people who work with SS and SS firm there. [link]
I post there as well and have gotten wonderful tips and advice from the other posters as well as feedback/critique on my works-in-progress.
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Kekira In reply to rgyoung [2009-11-10 16:59:18 +0000 UTC]
I just joined as Kekira. Hope it works out.
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She-Beast [2009-05-26 14:17:25 +0000 UTC]
Thank you so much for the share!! The isopropyl alchohol I definitely didn't know about.
I have a question though... really appreciate it if you could reply--
I'm sculpting a figure which I want to give this kind of finish & style:
[link]
So everything's OK with the process but now I have to sand it, and I'm going to use sandpaper and some gouges...
my question is, will that be enough to give the result I want? I'm a bit scared I'll break the figure into pieces...:S
Thanks again
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rgyoung In reply to She-Beast [2009-05-26 22:40:29 +0000 UTC]
Yes, sandpaper will get you the smoothness you're after, but it will probably take a lot of patience. Just use a gentle hand for the finer/thinner areas, and you really shouldn't have to worry about breakage. Even if you do break it, breaks and cracks are fixable with superglue and apoxie.
I recommend using sanding sponges. This will allow you to work wet by dipping the sanding sponge into water and then using it to sand down areas of the sculpt. You get better results sanding polymer clay with a damp/wet sanding sponge than a piece of regular sand paper. Fine grit to start and then ultra-fine grit to finish, periodic rinses, and a lot of patience should get you the result you're after. Test out the smoothness of the sculpt periodically by spraying on a light coat of sandable primer--this will give you an idea of where you need to sand more, and will show any tiny cracks or imperfections that might not be readily visible otherwise.
You're welcome and good luck!
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She-Beast In reply to rgyoung [2009-05-28 00:19:29 +0000 UTC]
What a detailed reply-- thank you I must. This is so useful!!
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ShoJoJim [2009-02-18 19:24:29 +0000 UTC]
Thank you so much for sharing this! I was never taught how to use armatures or alcohol, and the only tool I use is a regular pear knife.. I'm excited to get some of these materials and try it out!
(I actually threw away a half-full box of Sculpey because it had become brittle and chunky! That clay softener would have been nice to have!)
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rgyoung In reply to ShoJoJim [2009-02-18 19:35:47 +0000 UTC]
You're welcome!
Alot of the things I use I picked up because of places like ConceptArt, which has some really excellent tutorials for sculpting.
[link]
A tip on the sculpey--the box it comes in will leach all the plasticizer (the stuff that makes it soft and malleable) out of the clay over time and make it brittle and crumbly. Best thing to do when you get a new box is to cut it into workable chunks and put it in an airtight plastic container, or a ziplock bag. Some people also wrap it in plastic wrap. Anything that is non-absorbent and keeps air out will extend its shelf-life.
Happy sculpting!
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Eviecats [2009-02-18 08:29:53 +0000 UTC]
Wow this is a real help, I never realized alcohol could be used as a smoother, bye bye fingerprints as a nessisary signature!
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rgyoung In reply to Eviecats [2009-02-18 16:54:00 +0000 UTC]
Great, I'm glad it was helpful to you! I think you'll be pleased with what the alcohol does for your pieces.
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