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Ugrik β€” Acid etching toturial

Published: 2008-02-19 12:52:08 +0000 UTC; Views: 9912; Favourites: 124; Downloads: 277
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Description Its my first toturial so i hope it can give some insight for people who want to do something like that.

Id also like to recive feedback how good it is to read this toturial, is something missing or should it be done differently.

Be careful with dangerous chemicals!

Edit - I still cant belive i wrote toturial - i need a whole new category!
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Comments: 55

Blightcraftgamma [2012-05-03 23:18:11 +0000 UTC]

Thanks for the post. will have to give this a try

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rainworm [2011-02-04 18:00:31 +0000 UTC]

Very impressive!!All ur work is Soooo awesome!!

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Ugrik In reply to rainworm [2011-02-04 18:26:55 +0000 UTC]

Thanx. Did you find tutorial helpful?

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rainworm In reply to Ugrik [2011-02-09 12:32:54 +0000 UTC]

yeah.It's very helpful! thanks again!

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blizatrex [2009-10-14 11:56:52 +0000 UTC]

this is great.

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Ugrik In reply to blizatrex [2009-10-14 22:12:48 +0000 UTC]

Thanx! hope its helpful.

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jun1art [2008-11-10 19:08:35 +0000 UTC]

wow,.. interesting tutorial

yes,.. acid nitrit is very dangerous stuff.
I got ceramic stone burn by this chemical

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Ugrik In reply to jun1art [2008-11-11 08:39:37 +0000 UTC]

Thanx - i hope it helps someone to make interesting and beautiful things. Ofcourse reasonable care must be taken but its relatively safe compared to lots of other things

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jun1art In reply to Ugrik [2008-11-11 13:43:49 +0000 UTC]

agree

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AWdeV [2008-05-28 09:54:36 +0000 UTC]

Very awesome. Lovely. Might even be useful one day.

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Ugrik In reply to AWdeV [2008-05-30 06:36:30 +0000 UTC]

Heh - i hope it is - for people who dont have education on the field - knowhow is one most valuable things.

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AWdeV In reply to Ugrik [2008-05-31 20:45:43 +0000 UTC]

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Nechtan-Da-Smith [2008-02-27 03:11:45 +0000 UTC]

All typos aside its an awesome show and tell. You have made each step clear and simple enough for even new folks to have a go at it. Well done, and keep up the awesome work.

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Ugrik In reply to Nechtan-Da-Smith [2008-02-27 10:15:37 +0000 UTC]

Thanx - I tried to make it as clear as possible. Beginners might have difficulties to get all the materials - some of them are not available in every store?

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gacek [2008-02-21 20:17:41 +0000 UTC]

awesome tutorial Ugrik! Thank you!

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Ugrik In reply to gacek [2008-02-21 22:31:44 +0000 UTC]

You are welcome

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l0stSnyPr [2008-02-21 00:34:55 +0000 UTC]

thank you ugrik! needded that help now i can actually try etching

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Ugrik In reply to l0stSnyPr [2008-02-21 10:17:11 +0000 UTC]

You are welcome - its pretty fun

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Runescribe [2008-02-20 18:12:54 +0000 UTC]

What do you mean by nitric solvent?

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Runescribe In reply to Runescribe [2008-02-22 22:50:02 +0000 UTC]

Professional curiosity, you might say - I'm studying for a chemistry degree. I just wondered.

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Ugrik In reply to Runescribe [2008-02-20 19:14:24 +0000 UTC]

excelent question its usually used as painthinner and solvent and can be bought at most hardwarestores i think. This particular specimen contains toluene (or methylbenzene), ethanol, acetone, n-butylacetate and n-buthanol - i may have made loads of spellingmistakes here

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Runescribe In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-21 01:36:18 +0000 UTC]

That's an interesting mix. Does it mix properly with water-based stuff like the nitric acid?

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Ugrik In reply to Runescribe [2008-02-21 10:15:30 +0000 UTC]

well - you don't have to mix it with nitric acid at any point in this process - and im not sure what would happen if one started to mix these - organic compounds probably change some OH groups for NO3

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Runescribe In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-22 19:37:45 +0000 UTC]

I think you'd have to heat a mixture to get it to react, as the HNO3 isn't very concentrated and the solvents aren't very reactive to acid. I was wondering whether they mix because I know acetone and ethanol will mix with water, but toluene won't. If you combine solvents that can change whether they mix with water.

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Ugrik In reply to Runescribe [2008-02-22 19:56:37 +0000 UTC]

Well - i guess they mix because they are polar solvents but why would you want to do that? Some byproducts from such reactions are not the healthiest stuff around...

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DorianNavarre [2008-02-20 11:25:49 +0000 UTC]

Thank you.

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Ugrik In reply to DorianNavarre [2008-02-20 21:51:47 +0000 UTC]

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lost-angle [2008-02-20 02:11:29 +0000 UTC]

Very nice, If I did metal work, I would find this useful

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Ugrik In reply to lost-angle [2008-02-20 08:22:17 +0000 UTC]

Thanx!

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izkavan [2008-02-19 23:49:20 +0000 UTC]

heh... if only I could find some steel and acid now....


*runs off to talk to chemistry teacher*


but I do have a question. in the end photograph, you have the piece of steel turned into a blade. does that distort the image at all? and if so, how should I take this into effect?

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Ugrik In reply to izkavan [2008-02-20 08:19:58 +0000 UTC]

im not sure what you mean in the last question - you can also engrave and etch 3-dimensional surfaces - only it makes engraving the picture on the varnish much more difficult. I added the picture to show how to use wet newspaper to engrave both sides - without it you probably scratch the varnis on the other side while engraving.

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bobwannabe [2008-02-19 23:12:13 +0000 UTC]

if itΒ΄s a good tutorial we'll c wenn i tried it myself but nevertheless it looks good

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Ugrik In reply to bobwannabe [2008-02-20 08:23:52 +0000 UTC]

its toturial - didnt you read the headline? i still cant believe i wrote it wrong

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bobwannabe In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-20 11:33:40 +0000 UTC]

ah lol just tried to be funny, but it wasnt a good joke! next time i try, i`ll have some practice first. no offense intended , just too dump to be funny not too dump to read

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Jarathorn [2008-02-19 20:42:59 +0000 UTC]

Oh vary cool! I have tried similar except with PC board etcher available at your local radio shack. For the people who live in the US.

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Ugrik In reply to Jarathorn [2008-02-19 21:14:11 +0000 UTC]

Thanx! - i may even try to do some other tutorials someday - its so difficult to take camera to workshop - and i only had 75-300mm tele lens so i had to take pics from 2m away from the object. How did it work out with pc board etcher?

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Jarathorn In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-20 04:26:51 +0000 UTC]

It looks good what I do is Acid etch the knifes right after I finish sanding then buff till mirror finished.

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Ugrik In reply to Jarathorn [2008-02-20 08:24:23 +0000 UTC]

hmm - any pictures from result?

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Jarathorn In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-20 16:07:56 +0000 UTC]

No But I am nearly finished with the knife and I will take pictures then. I was planning some experiments with it to see what it could do. and I will definitely post a before and after of those experiments.

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ThundersSilence [2008-02-19 15:34:15 +0000 UTC]

mhh interesting.... so the metal stays black after coming out of the acid? and that works for steel or for other metals as well? or are metals like gold and silver "too precious" for the acid to work? how deep is the etch? the result actually reminds me of photoetching, just that there you have to use something to achieve a patina, the acid doesn't leave it dark. thank for the tutorial btw, it sounds very interesting. there are a few typos in there, but otherwise no problems ^^

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Ugrik In reply to ThundersSilence [2008-02-19 15:44:03 +0000 UTC]

well - the metal thats etched is dark - not black but contrast with polished metal is big. It works with other metals but different acids and salts may be needed - for copper, brass and bronze i use FeCl3 for example. Silver and gold are difficult because they are relativly immune to chemical reactions - silver could be etched with consentrated nitric acid and gold had special mixture from salt-acid (HCl) and sulfuric acid (H2SO4) - i dont know this for sure. Etch depth depends on time it spends in acid - i prefer relatively long times that give about half-millimeter deep engraving. Sorry about the typos

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ThundersSilence In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-20 15:17:00 +0000 UTC]

yeah... "aqua regia"'s the only thing that works for gold, i'm not even sure gold is even etched at all qith those kind of methods. otherwise i don't quite remember what we used for photoetching on silver... but can be very well it was the acid you mentioned. ahh.. i think i have to try and get my hands on a piece of steel and then to this, the color different really impresses me a lot... i bet nice things can be done with it

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Ugrik In reply to ThundersSilence [2008-02-20 16:03:26 +0000 UTC]

well - the contrast is bit enhacned by the photo - but its indeed big between polished metal and corroded and spongy (somewhat - cant describe it well) etched surface

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Nechtan-Da-Smith In reply to Ugrik [2008-02-27 03:10:13 +0000 UTC]

I have blued the etch out area on a few pieces to enhance the contrast. It makes the image really pop out if you need the contrast.

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Ugrik In reply to Nechtan-Da-Smith [2008-02-27 07:07:37 +0000 UTC]

very nice idea - i must try that

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YiorYeosa [2008-02-19 13:34:16 +0000 UTC]

Thank you! This will come in handy one day.

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Ugrik In reply to YiorYeosa [2008-02-19 14:50:41 +0000 UTC]

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cl2007 [2008-02-19 13:12:52 +0000 UTC]

i don't think i will try it, but very well done tutorial... i didn't know anything about how to do it before i read this!

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Ugrik In reply to cl2007 [2008-02-19 13:17:13 +0000 UTC]

thanx - i was just pointed out that i wrote tutorial constantly wrong - so i need new toturial category for it

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SwissCheesy [2008-02-19 13:10:13 +0000 UTC]

Interesting...maybe I'll need that later on.

It does help I guess, but there are a few minor spelling mistakes. As for "toturial", it's actually tutorial. Well, but all in all I can understand the whole thing, nice job!

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